Day 7: No rest for the wicked, I guess. Ehren woke us all up promptly at 6:30 am, and we started getting ready to meet our cousins and friend at Kaldi's Coffee house, next to Jimmy’s on the Park off Delmar. Delicious coffee and oatmeal were enjoyed, and we got a taste of the evening fun that will be had with the cousins! Spilled coffee couldn't even ruin the family reunion. Congratulations on Cousin Joe's front page article on inner city bee keeping, and the success of Cousin in law Marsha and cousin Melissa's Back Door Harvest was passed around. Joe was swept off to the airport for a 24 hour trip to NY for work, and the kiddie cousins were taken off for a well deserved nap.
City Museum was our morning stop, and boy was it worth it. For being a kids exploration place, parents sure have to be on their toes. There are slides and tree houses and things to climb up and down and explore all over. It was a place to just get absorbed into---so many things to see and touch and climb. We ran all over the no-skate skate park, climbed the world’s largest pencil, and went down the 2-story slide. I think we will come back when the kids are in 3rd grade at least, so they have a little more balance and we can let them explore on their own.
Lunch took us to Piggy’s BBQ in O’Fallon, just outside of St Louis. We were about 5 minutes in the car and the kids were OUT. A little early—we were hoping to at least have lunch before nap…oh well! Pitmaster Michael Killian has been smoking Ribs 33 years, and just opened up Piggy’s about 5 years ago. The past 3 yrs he’s been voted best BBQ in NE MO. Nice! We got the special Friday full rack of Ribs with the dry rub, of course. Sauce on the side. We got a side of beans and slaw, and a pulled pork sandwich for the kids.
We pulled into a Schnuck's (often referred to as shmucks by those of us that cannot read the sign correctly) and purchase variety packs of the MO craft brew houses, and to dine on our lovely full slab of ribs.
Now, back to the hotel for a nap and then off to cousin Maria and Joey’s house for playtime and Pizza.
Friday, March 26, 2010
Thursday, March 25, 2010
Day 6 - Fond Farewell on to St. Louis
Day 6: We said a sad goodbye to the Rush-Leavitt family, who were the best hosts we could have asked for. (If you find yourself in Memphis, feel free to book your pumpkin-colored suite complete with crib, blow up mattress, and froggie humidifier in Cordova by calling Jenelle at 419-555-5555. She’ll cook you dinner, play with your kids, and teach you the basics of how to handle getting licked incessantly by a 110lb Rottweiler.) We fed the kids, packed the car, and headed out to get some coffee and pastries. Sean spied a Howard’s Donuts and pulled a “Memphis Left,” which is crossing 3 lanes hastily in order to turn left. He happened to open the door for Mr. Howard, and picked out 6 delicious handmade donuts from the 30+ different kinds.
Our last stop in Memphis was to Cozy Corner at 745 N. Parkway. It’s been owned by the Robinson family since 1977—opened in August, the same month that Elvis died. Mr. Raymond Robinson passed on in 2001, but Mrs. Desiree Robinson and her family are still running the place family-style. We arrived just before their opening at 10am, and were kindly greeted by Delores herself and her great-grand daughter Laylah. Laylah was the perfect hostess and invited Aislinn and Ehren in for a good game of run-around-the-tables while we waited for the famous Bologna Sandwich. It was ¾ inch thick slab of Smoked Bologna that made the bun it came in a courtesy to keep your fingers clean! It was topped with their house BBQ Mild Sauce, and topped with coleslaw. Despite the good breakfast, Sean savored every bite. Ehren took a good taste bite, and quickly leaned back for more! We also picked up 2 smoked wings with the mild sauce as well—will test in a few. If you stop anywhere in Memphis, we highly recommend the Cozy Corner. It’s in sight of the pyramid downtown, easy to find, and the friendliest family BBQ joint that we have seen thus far. We will definitely be back!
Now, it’s time to head back across the Mississippi River into Arkansas and up towards the bootleg of Missouri towards St. Louis. First stop---Ray’s World Famous Bar-B-Que at 4114 N.E.Service Road in West Memphis, AK. This is their 3rd location since opening over 30 years ago. Sean ordered their BBQ Pork Sandwich, and upon paying, was offered a Rib with the assurance that you can’t leave without tasting the Ribs! Sean learned how things are ordered in West Memphis:
“How can I help you?”
“Can I get the small BBQ Pork Sandwich please?”
“You want the Sammich or the Plate?”
“I’ll just take the Sammich.”
Next stop is Willie Mae’s Rib Haus on Broadway, also in West Memphis. Side note---it’s 10:45 am and both Curry Kids fully conked out. Post-Oliver Leavitt/ Laylah play coma. That’s what I call a good vacation. And oh look---A Sonic!
Willie Mae’s Rib Haus was named after the Polk family’s mother, Willie Mae, who passed in 1996. Sean ordered the Rib Sandwich, served drowned in BBQ sauce and laid gently on a bed of coleslaw, cushioned between 2 pieces of Texas Toast. We met David Polk, one of the brothers who was working today, and he was happy to share his family story. Eight brothers and two sisters opened the Rib Haus a few months after her passing, sharing ownership. The whole family has always been cooking, and they decided to open the Haus as a way to honor their mother. They collected all of Willie Mae’s recipes (which consists of a 2-ft stack of ripped and torn yellowing pieces of paper, all handwritten) and started cooking. One of the brothers has been in the Army for the past 30 years, and has traveled the world, allowing him to expand upon his ability to cook the cuisines of all the countries he’s visited. What better way to celebrate Mom AND continue to get her good food? They have an additional cooker in the back of the restaurant that they use for busier times of the year, as well as taking off-site to cook at different functions and block parties as a way to give to their community.
The kids are sleeping, and we’re headed North on 55 towards St. Louis. 257 miles to go! It’s well deserved rest time for the kids without any opening and closing of van doors, nor the added smell of delicious BBQ. Thank goodness I’m full from the Donuts, otherwise the smell of Wings, Pork Sandwich, Rib Sandwich, and a Rib would be killer right now.
After a much needed nap, we stopped in Steele, AK (pop. 225) at Boss Hog’s for a quick lunch. The General Lee was not outside, no. We were immediately pegged for “not being from around here,” and enjoyed a nice BBQ plate and Catfish plate. As we were paying, we found that we made a big mistake---Boss Hogs was really known for their hamburgers—fresh meat trucked in daily! Bummer. Next time. Back on the road towards Bo’s BBQ in honor of my brother and a quick pork sandwich. It wasn’t an intended food stop, but Sean found that it was family run, opened by Grandpa in 1968 as “Coleman’s BBQ.” When Grandpa went to buy rights for the name, he found that the Coleman Lantern Factory had issue with that, so the name was changed to his nickname—“Bo’s.” Bo has since passed, and the restaurant is run by his son and son-in-law.
On to Lambert’s, home of the throwed rolls! And boy, were they throwed! I can admit that jumped up for 3 rolls---all piping hot, just out of the oven. YUM. With a little Sorghum on it, they were perfect. We shied away from BBQ, and had frog legs (local specialty) and veggies. Lambert’s is a lot of fun, and very family-friendly They have a few sides that they serve family-style---just walking around, passing it out. We enjoyed friend Okra (Ehren is a big fan), hash browns, greens, and of course, the rolls. Back to the roll-throwing. They DO throw them—right from one side of the restaurant to the other. Some meet an untimely end by hitting the décor on the inside roof, but others make it right to you if you’re a good catch. Aislinn squeeled each time one was throwed, and kept asking where the roll guy was! It was a perfect end to a long day of driving. On to the Red Roof Inn and a comfy bed!
Our last stop in Memphis was to Cozy Corner at 745 N. Parkway. It’s been owned by the Robinson family since 1977—opened in August, the same month that Elvis died. Mr. Raymond Robinson passed on in 2001, but Mrs. Desiree Robinson and her family are still running the place family-style. We arrived just before their opening at 10am, and were kindly greeted by Delores herself and her great-grand daughter Laylah. Laylah was the perfect hostess and invited Aislinn and Ehren in for a good game of run-around-the-tables while we waited for the famous Bologna Sandwich. It was ¾ inch thick slab of Smoked Bologna that made the bun it came in a courtesy to keep your fingers clean! It was topped with their house BBQ Mild Sauce, and topped with coleslaw. Despite the good breakfast, Sean savored every bite. Ehren took a good taste bite, and quickly leaned back for more! We also picked up 2 smoked wings with the mild sauce as well—will test in a few. If you stop anywhere in Memphis, we highly recommend the Cozy Corner. It’s in sight of the pyramid downtown, easy to find, and the friendliest family BBQ joint that we have seen thus far. We will definitely be back!
Now, it’s time to head back across the Mississippi River into Arkansas and up towards the bootleg of Missouri towards St. Louis. First stop---Ray’s World Famous Bar-B-Que at 4114 N.E.Service Road in West Memphis, AK. This is their 3rd location since opening over 30 years ago. Sean ordered their BBQ Pork Sandwich, and upon paying, was offered a Rib with the assurance that you can’t leave without tasting the Ribs! Sean learned how things are ordered in West Memphis:
“How can I help you?”
“Can I get the small BBQ Pork Sandwich please?”
“You want the Sammich or the Plate?”
“I’ll just take the Sammich.”
Next stop is Willie Mae’s Rib Haus on Broadway, also in West Memphis. Side note---it’s 10:45 am and both Curry Kids fully conked out. Post-Oliver Leavitt/ Laylah play coma. That’s what I call a good vacation. And oh look---A Sonic!
Willie Mae’s Rib Haus was named after the Polk family’s mother, Willie Mae, who passed in 1996. Sean ordered the Rib Sandwich, served drowned in BBQ sauce and laid gently on a bed of coleslaw, cushioned between 2 pieces of Texas Toast. We met David Polk, one of the brothers who was working today, and he was happy to share his family story. Eight brothers and two sisters opened the Rib Haus a few months after her passing, sharing ownership. The whole family has always been cooking, and they decided to open the Haus as a way to honor their mother. They collected all of Willie Mae’s recipes (which consists of a 2-ft stack of ripped and torn yellowing pieces of paper, all handwritten) and started cooking. One of the brothers has been in the Army for the past 30 years, and has traveled the world, allowing him to expand upon his ability to cook the cuisines of all the countries he’s visited. What better way to celebrate Mom AND continue to get her good food? They have an additional cooker in the back of the restaurant that they use for busier times of the year, as well as taking off-site to cook at different functions and block parties as a way to give to their community.
The kids are sleeping, and we’re headed North on 55 towards St. Louis. 257 miles to go! It’s well deserved rest time for the kids without any opening and closing of van doors, nor the added smell of delicious BBQ. Thank goodness I’m full from the Donuts, otherwise the smell of Wings, Pork Sandwich, Rib Sandwich, and a Rib would be killer right now.
After a much needed nap, we stopped in Steele, AK (pop. 225) at Boss Hog’s for a quick lunch. The General Lee was not outside, no. We were immediately pegged for “not being from around here,” and enjoyed a nice BBQ plate and Catfish plate. As we were paying, we found that we made a big mistake---Boss Hogs was really known for their hamburgers—fresh meat trucked in daily! Bummer. Next time. Back on the road towards Bo’s BBQ in honor of my brother and a quick pork sandwich. It wasn’t an intended food stop, but Sean found that it was family run, opened by Grandpa in 1968 as “Coleman’s BBQ.” When Grandpa went to buy rights for the name, he found that the Coleman Lantern Factory had issue with that, so the name was changed to his nickname—“Bo’s.” Bo has since passed, and the restaurant is run by his son and son-in-law.
On to Lambert’s, home of the throwed rolls! And boy, were they throwed! I can admit that jumped up for 3 rolls---all piping hot, just out of the oven. YUM. With a little Sorghum on it, they were perfect. We shied away from BBQ, and had frog legs (local specialty) and veggies. Lambert’s is a lot of fun, and very family-friendly They have a few sides that they serve family-style---just walking around, passing it out. We enjoyed friend Okra (Ehren is a big fan), hash browns, greens, and of course, the rolls. Back to the roll-throwing. They DO throw them—right from one side of the restaurant to the other. Some meet an untimely end by hitting the décor on the inside roof, but others make it right to you if you’re a good catch. Aislinn squeeled each time one was throwed, and kept asking where the roll guy was! It was a perfect end to a long day of driving. On to the Red Roof Inn and a comfy bed!
Wednesday, March 24, 2010
Day 5 - Duck's on Parade, Beale St, Pig and Whistle
Day 5: Time to go see the Peabody Duck Parade!
Our crew headed out in the morning for a good breakfast and Bryant’s Breakfast and more. Let me tell you—we haven’t gotten enough good Southern Breakfasts. It’s a small diner off St where you walk in, order you breakfast at the counter, and find a seat. You won’t find any pancakes here, and almost everything comes with biscuits, gravy and grits. Sean splurged and got a side of Sorghum for his Meat and Eggs special, and it was worth it.
The nice consistency of honey, with a molasses richness. Nice. My breakfast platter consisted of eggs, hickory smoked bacon, 3 big fluffy biscuits, and the side of gravy and grits. Sean’s meat platter had a few slices of thick sausage patties, bacon, ham, pork chops, and country fried chicken . The kids devoured their sausage sandwiches, and we were on the way.
We had an unfortunate
discovery that the Leavitt stroller had been left in the parking lot after our rendevous at Rendevous BBQ, so the Leavitts headed home and we went off to see the Ducks at the Peabody hotel. Imagine if you will—a large fountain in the middle of the Palmer House Hotel in Chicago. And it’s filled with ducks. And there’s a fiery redheaded 2 yr-old running circles around it, screaming in excitement. That’s what we did. It was awesome
We met up with Jenelle’s parents Judy
and Denny Rush for lunch in downtown Memphis. Rum Boogie was the name of the restaurant, right on Beale Street. You can tell just from the outside that this place is hopping in the evening. The inside is decorated in dark wood, with notes and hand-written dollar bills posted all over the walls. The ceiling sports guitars from artists in every walk of Music, from Buddy Guy to Pantara. A cool, hip bar/restaurant that was comfortable for our family. It was also delicious, even after a full southern breakfast. I had a catfish sandwich, something that everyone must try if they come south. Yummy. Sean had the hot wings, Denny had the Jambalaya, and Judy had the BBQ Pork Sandwich.
After driving around to
get the kids naps fully charged. We returned to the Rush-Leavitt house and decided to order in Pig and Whistle BBQ. Sean was dispatched to get the food. Sean and Brad had the King Combos, which included half slab, smoked sausage and pulled pork. As for Jenelle and Catherine, they opted for the Idaho Pig, which consisted of an Idaho potato cut open and filled with pulled pork, slathered with BBQ and chives, with cheddar cheese melted over the top. Additionally, we all thought it was a good (bad) idea to get fried pickles and hush puppies to go along with it. This would have been nixed if we had known that potatoes and King combos were so large. (see photo)
Our crew headed out in the morning for a good breakfast and Bryant’s Breakfast and more. Let me tell you—we haven’t gotten enough good Southern Breakfasts. It’s a small diner off St where you walk in, order you breakfast at the counter, and find a seat. You won’t find any pancakes here, and almost everything comes with biscuits, gravy and grits. Sean splurged and got a side of Sorghum for his Meat and Eggs special, and it was worth it.
The nice consistency of honey, with a molasses richness. Nice. My breakfast platter consisted of eggs, hickory smoked bacon, 3 big fluffy biscuits, and the side of gravy and grits. Sean’s meat platter had a few slices of thick sausage patties, bacon, ham, pork chops, and country fried chicken . The kids devoured their sausage sandwiches, and we were on the way.
We had an unfortunate
discovery that the Leavitt stroller had been left in the parking lot after our rendevous at Rendevous BBQ, so the Leavitts headed home and we went off to see the Ducks at the Peabody hotel. Imagine if you will—a large fountain in the middle of the Palmer House Hotel in Chicago. And it’s filled with ducks. And there’s a fiery redheaded 2 yr-old running circles around it, screaming in excitement. That’s what we did. It was awesomeWe met up with Jenelle’s parents Judy
and Denny Rush for lunch in downtown Memphis. Rum Boogie was the name of the restaurant, right on Beale Street. You can tell just from the outside that this place is hopping in the evening. The inside is decorated in dark wood, with notes and hand-written dollar bills posted all over the walls. The ceiling sports guitars from artists in every walk of Music, from Buddy Guy to Pantara. A cool, hip bar/restaurant that was comfortable for our family. It was also delicious, even after a full southern breakfast. I had a catfish sandwich, something that everyone must try if they come south. Yummy. Sean had the hot wings, Denny had the Jambalaya, and Judy had the BBQ Pork Sandwich. After driving around to
get the kids naps fully charged. We returned to the Rush-Leavitt house and decided to order in Pig and Whistle BBQ. Sean was dispatched to get the food. Sean and Brad had the King Combos, which included half slab, smoked sausage and pulled pork. As for Jenelle and Catherine, they opted for the Idaho Pig, which consisted of an Idaho potato cut open and filled with pulled pork, slathered with BBQ and chives, with cheddar cheese melted over the top. Additionally, we all thought it was a good (bad) idea to get fried pickles and hush puppies to go along with it. This would have been nixed if we had known that potatoes and King combos were so large. (see photo)
Tuesday, March 23, 2010
Day 4 - Exotic Meats, and Places without BBQ
Day 4: Memphis Zoo, here we come! We made pancakes in the morning, enjoyed playing inside, and headed out for lunch before hitting the Zoo. We were planning on eating at the “Pig and Whistle,” but it ended up not being there. Apparently having small kids didn’t allow us to think that it might be a good idea to CALL FIRST. Life Lesson # 20 regarding parenting learned on this trip.
We ended up at an awesome little place on Quince St. called
“The Three Little Pigs.” Cute, quaint, offers breakfast, kid-friendly---all good. Good Pork Meal and the kids loved their hot dogs! The sauce was also nice and sweet. Just how we like it.
The Memphis Zoo is AWESOME. Our theme today, however, ended up being “Poop in the Zoo.” We walked in and headed to the primate area---monkey pooping on the post. Headed over to see the Elephants getting fed their hay---and pooping. (Queue large group “EWWWWW”). Then continuing on to see the Polar Bears and Sea Lions. We went up to the Bear area called “Teton Trek” and saw the two bears playing around their enclosure and…. what do you know?! Poop. We took a break outside in the tree-covered picnic area, watching the kids playing in the fountain and looking for acorns. Good break to the walk. On our way out we went to visit the Pandas! One was outside and moving around quite a bit, eating bamboo. It was excellent to see him so active. They had some Otters in an enclosure with Gibbons in the Panda area, and there was one Gibbon who was quite the instigator of trouble. He’d swing up, around, and over his enclosure, tweek a little otter by the tail, and then take off. The poor little things finally got fed up and headed into the Gibbon-free water. I had a feeling that this scene happens multiple times a day. Did I mention that the Panda pooped? Listen. Everybody poops, ok? Just don’t always mention it to the 2-yr old. “Aislinn, what did you see at the Zoo today?” “Mommy…did da Elefant poopied!? HEE HEE HEE.”
We then met up with Bradley at Charlie Vergos Rendezvous in downtown Memphis on 2nd Ave. Nice. The entrance is under their smoker exhaust in the Alley.
Not exactly stroller friendly—we had to carry ours downstairs since 3 of our 4 kids were sleeping. We headed in and after some confusion got to our table. It was the end of the day at the Zoo…give us a break. We’re really nice people. Anyway, our waiter Jack saved us all. He was an older gentleman who looked like he was a Blues guitar player—cool, and could hardly understand him. “Don’t order anything fried ‘caus we don’t have it. Beans and Slaw—that’s it.” Ok, we get it! Ribs all around, Cheese and Sausage plate for a starter—sausage, cheese, salami, and smoked ham sprinkled with the rub—MMM. Chicken-Rib combo for the kids. Good all around. No Wet-rib ordering---they’ll kick you out. With these Ribs, however, you don’t even need sauce. They were moist and delicious. I have given up Pop for Sweet Tea, which is lovely with some good meat. It’s nothing special---probably Lipton with Sweet and Low. But iced, with lemon—it’s a nice addition to the BBQ meal. After dinner, we headed through the bustling downtown Memphis, past the Autozone Park—home of the Memphis Redbirds (feeder to St. Louis Cards) and FedEx center (basketball!) and back to Cordova-Appling, TN. Home of the Leavitts. The kids were all asleep by the time we got home, and we were thankfully able to get them to sleep with little trouble. Ehren is still in his day clothes. No, it doesn’t make me a bad parent. I just have to watch him tonight in case Sean sleepwalks towards the Smokey smell in our room.
We ended up at an awesome little place on Quince St. called
“The Three Little Pigs.” Cute, quaint, offers breakfast, kid-friendly---all good. Good Pork Meal and the kids loved their hot dogs! The sauce was also nice and sweet. Just how we like it. 
The Memphis Zoo is AWESOME. Our theme today, however, ended up being “Poop in the Zoo.” We walked in and headed to the primate area---monkey pooping on the post. Headed over to see the Elephants getting fed their hay---and pooping. (Queue large group “EWWWWW”). Then continuing on to see the Polar Bears and Sea Lions. We went up to the Bear area called “Teton Trek” and saw the two bears playing around their enclosure and…. what do you know?! Poop. We took a break outside in the tree-covered picnic area, watching the kids playing in the fountain and looking for acorns. Good break to the walk. On our way out we went to visit the Pandas! One was outside and moving around quite a bit, eating bamboo. It was excellent to see him so active. They had some Otters in an enclosure with Gibbons in the Panda area, and there was one Gibbon who was quite the instigator of trouble. He’d swing up, around, and over his enclosure, tweek a little otter by the tail, and then take off. The poor little things finally got fed up and headed into the Gibbon-free water. I had a feeling that this scene happens multiple times a day. Did I mention that the Panda pooped? Listen. Everybody poops, ok? Just don’t always mention it to the 2-yr old. “Aislinn, what did you see at the Zoo today?” “Mommy…did da Elefant poopied!? HEE HEE HEE.”
We then met up with Bradley at Charlie Vergos Rendezvous in downtown Memphis on 2nd Ave. Nice. The entrance is under their smoker exhaust in the Alley.
Not exactly stroller friendly—we had to carry ours downstairs since 3 of our 4 kids were sleeping. We headed in and after some confusion got to our table. It was the end of the day at the Zoo…give us a break. We’re really nice people. Anyway, our waiter Jack saved us all. He was an older gentleman who looked like he was a Blues guitar player—cool, and could hardly understand him. “Don’t order anything fried ‘caus we don’t have it. Beans and Slaw—that’s it.” Ok, we get it! Ribs all around, Cheese and Sausage plate for a starter—sausage, cheese, salami, and smoked ham sprinkled with the rub—MMM. Chicken-Rib combo for the kids. Good all around. No Wet-rib ordering---they’ll kick you out. With these Ribs, however, you don’t even need sauce. They were moist and delicious. I have given up Pop for Sweet Tea, which is lovely with some good meat. It’s nothing special---probably Lipton with Sweet and Low. But iced, with lemon—it’s a nice addition to the BBQ meal. After dinner, we headed through the bustling downtown Memphis, past the Autozone Park—home of the Memphis Redbirds (feeder to St. Louis Cards) and FedEx center (basketball!) and back to Cordova-Appling, TN. Home of the Leavitts. The kids were all asleep by the time we got home, and we were thankfully able to get them to sleep with little trouble. Ehren is still in his day clothes. No, it doesn’t make me a bad parent. I just have to watch him tonight in case Sean sleepwalks towards the Smokey smell in our room.
Monday, March 22, 2010
Day 3 - Memphis Boogie
Day 3: “I’m going to Graceland, Graceland, Memphis Tennessee, I’m going to Graceland!” YAHOO! We started the day by taking Oliver to his Kids day out before a morning filled with play, and then on to GRACELAND. We stopped at Interstate BBQ on 3rd street for lunch filled with BBQ spaghetti
, Wet Ribs that were supposed to be dry, and the BBQ Nachos. Yes, friends---Catherine ordered that one all on her own. Jalapeños included. And let me tell you, it was YUMMY.
The Neeley family started Interstate BBQ, and it’s filled with history. They were a little guarded about showing the strange white guy the smoker—the only restaurant to shoot down his request to get in the kitchen to see where the goodness is cooked. The interchange between Sean and the manager went something like this…”Wow. Is that your happy face?” “This IS my happy face.” Oh wait. I am sure you are wondering about the BBQ Nachos. This is the first time I have said, “I hope all the Nacho chips are moist and soggy.” Seriously. Warm Nacho Chips slathered in BBQ sauce, with smoked pork shoulder, slathered in nacho cheese and jalapeños. To eat was divine. Despite the sensitive staff, the food was good and filled us up for GRACELAND.
Yes, Catherine is a little excited.
Graceland is by FAR worth it. The house itself is amazing—a beautiful place stuck in 1970. It’s well maintained, and Sean and I found many rooms that we will be using for inspiration when we redecorate. POOL ROOM for sure. Seeing the gold records on the wall puts you in awe, and seeing his memorable concert costumes makes you gawk. It’s a time well worth it. When you get outside to the meditation garden where the Presleys are buried, it makes you wonder who on earth is still sending flowers, for goodness sakes. I’m glad Jenelle warned us to not make any comments while wearing our audio headset. “Who the heck sends flowers to a dead guy?” at full volume would have been pretty embarrassing. (At least she said it was embarrassing upon her trip to Graceland.)
Catherine didn’t get to hear much of the Audio, but our 2 yr old Aislinn can recount most of the story for me. Despite the excellent audio, she still managed to have a meltdown before we made it to the planes. Parents---my best advice is this---take the kid elsewhere when the meltdown begins. It is your fault that they didn’t have a nap, and they’re just tired, dammit. Take them to the car or a quiet place in the shade, give them some water, and just soothe them. Don’t zap all your energy trying to get them to calm down in the museum. Best decision I made. My nice text to Sean was simply, “ Van. NOW.”
With the kids crashing out in their car seats before we left Graceland's parking lot, and 1.5 hours to kill before dinner, we decided to cruise around the seedy areas of Memphis looking for those out of the way, classic and true BBQ spots. We went back to Marlowe's Rib House to get a BBQ pork plate. Marlowe's Smoker is located in the middle of the restaurant, wafting smoke and great smells throughout to entire dining room.
Marlowe's has three pit masters that are on shift throgh the entire smiking process. They feel that there should be one person responsible for the meat during the shift, and if they were to bring someone else on during the cooking process, they may screw up the timing on the smoke, and ruin the next days meat for the restaurant. Ducking a head into the smoker reveals a deep hickory smell, with the feint undertones of beech wood. Upon leaving the smoker, the meat is plated and immediately dowsed with a sweet, tangy sauce that its on the counter in a crock pot waiting to be delivered to waiting fans. Upon leaving the bar area with my food in tow, I remember that Diners, Drive Ins and Dives ad bee at this location, and mark off another cross over from our list.
With the smell of pork wafting up from the foot well of the van, we decide to hit 2 more spots to get pork plates from each. our idea is to have a taste-off later on that night when the meat starts to dwindle from our pores. So we head off to Payne's BBQ on Elvis Presley Boulevard. As we move along EPB going north, we find that these more authentic regions of Memphis make Catherine nervous for our lives. Along the way to Payne's we notice multiple chimneys of auto repair places, and hair salons that are pouring smoke out of their tops. Wondering if there are smokers in every business in Memphis, our answer comes at the next location that we come to. Payne's fortunately is closed, and I saw this, because it is located in a neighborhood that may have taken our tires, should we have stopped. So we are left with one stop left before we reach out dinner destination.
TOPS BBQ is located all over Memphis, and stretches into Arkansas in West Memphis. As we pull onto Poplar Ave from EPB, we smell the smoke immediately, and we are still 5 blocks away from the restaurant. Parking in the lot behind the restaurant gives us the perfect angle to see the sunlight through the heavy clouds of hickory smoke that is billowing out of the chimney. Walking in the pork plate isn't that expensive (1/2 pound of pork, sauce, beans, slaw and roll for $4.95). Looking at the shoulders that are being cooked the skin is just starting to get that lovely brown look. The lady that is showing me the cooker tells me that there is a line of people that are at the door every day to buy that skin. They use it in mac and cheese, in their beans, and often in potato salad as cracklin's (pork rinds). She also tells me that there has been many a fight for the last batch.
After a refreshing nap for both kids in the car, we met the Rush-Leavitt family at the
BBQ Shop on Madison Ave, aka the “home of the Dancing Pigs.” They are known for their BBQ Spaghetti and Ribs. What is this BBQ Spaghetti, you ask? 
It’s pasta with smoked pork shoulder, drizzled in the house BBQ sauce. YUM. This one was well above Interstate’s because the pasta had the BBQ sauce incorporated into the noodle; however, it did leave a bit of a pool of oil on the plate. Dinner was good, but the sauce was pretty heavy in the vinegar arena.
The day was ended with getting the kids in bed, a taste test between the pork plates from Marlowe’s and Tops BBQ, and then watching Twilight: New Moon.
, Wet Ribs that were supposed to be dry, and the BBQ Nachos. Yes, friends---Catherine ordered that one all on her own. Jalapeños included. And let me tell you, it was YUMMY. 
The Neeley family started Interstate BBQ, and it’s filled with history. They were a little guarded about showing the strange white guy the smoker—the only restaurant to shoot down his request to get in the kitchen to see where the goodness is cooked. The interchange between Sean and the manager went something like this…”Wow. Is that your happy face?” “This IS my happy face.” Oh wait. I am sure you are wondering about the BBQ Nachos. This is the first time I have said, “I hope all the Nacho chips are moist and soggy.” Seriously. Warm Nacho Chips slathered in BBQ sauce, with smoked pork shoulder, slathered in nacho cheese and jalapeños. To eat was divine. Despite the sensitive staff, the food was good and filled us up for GRACELAND.
Yes, Catherine is a little excited. Graceland is by FAR worth it. The house itself is amazing—a beautiful place stuck in 1970. It’s well maintained, and Sean and I found many rooms that we will be using for inspiration when we redecorate. POOL ROOM for sure. Seeing the gold records on the wall puts you in awe, and seeing his memorable concert costumes makes you gawk. It’s a time well worth it. When you get outside to the meditation garden where the Presleys are buried, it makes you wonder who on earth is still sending flowers, for goodness sakes. I’m glad Jenelle warned us to not make any comments while wearing our audio headset. “Who the heck sends flowers to a dead guy?” at full volume would have been pretty embarrassing. (At least she said it was embarrassing upon her trip to Graceland.)
Catherine didn’t get to hear much of the Audio, but our 2 yr old Aislinn can recount most of the story for me. Despite the excellent audio, she still managed to have a meltdown before we made it to the planes. Parents---my best advice is this---take the kid elsewhere when the meltdown begins. It is your fault that they didn’t have a nap, and they’re just tired, dammit. Take them to the car or a quiet place in the shade, give them some water, and just soothe them. Don’t zap all your energy trying to get them to calm down in the museum. Best decision I made. My nice text to Sean was simply, “ Van. NOW.”With the kids crashing out in their car seats before we left Graceland's parking lot, and 1.5 hours to kill before dinner, we decided to cruise around the seedy areas of Memphis looking for those out of the way, classic and true BBQ spots. We went back to Marlowe's Rib House to get a BBQ pork plate. Marlowe's Smoker is located in the middle of the restaurant, wafting smoke and great smells throughout to entire dining room.
Marlowe's has three pit masters that are on shift throgh the entire smiking process. They feel that there should be one person responsible for the meat during the shift, and if they were to bring someone else on during the cooking process, they may screw up the timing on the smoke, and ruin the next days meat for the restaurant. Ducking a head into the smoker reveals a deep hickory smell, with the feint undertones of beech wood. Upon leaving the smoker, the meat is plated and immediately dowsed with a sweet, tangy sauce that its on the counter in a crock pot waiting to be delivered to waiting fans. Upon leaving the bar area with my food in tow, I remember that Diners, Drive Ins and Dives ad bee at this location, and mark off another cross over from our list.With the smell of pork wafting up from the foot well of the van, we decide to hit 2 more spots to get pork plates from each. our idea is to have a taste-off later on that night when the meat starts to dwindle from our pores. So we head off to Payne's BBQ on Elvis Presley Boulevard. As we move along EPB going north, we find that these more authentic regions of Memphis make Catherine nervous for our lives. Along the way to Payne's we notice multiple chimneys of auto repair places, and hair salons that are pouring smoke out of their tops. Wondering if there are smokers in every business in Memphis, our answer comes at the next location that we come to. Payne's fortunately is closed, and I saw this, because it is located in a neighborhood that may have taken our tires, should we have stopped. So we are left with one stop left before we reach out dinner destination.
TOPS BBQ is located all over Memphis, and stretches into Arkansas in West Memphis. As we pull onto Poplar Ave from EPB, we smell the smoke immediately, and we are still 5 blocks away from the restaurant. Parking in the lot behind the restaurant gives us the perfect angle to see the sunlight through the heavy clouds of hickory smoke that is billowing out of the chimney. Walking in the pork plate isn't that expensive (1/2 pound of pork, sauce, beans, slaw and roll for $4.95). Looking at the shoulders that are being cooked the skin is just starting to get that lovely brown look. The lady that is showing me the cooker tells me that there is a line of people that are at the door every day to buy that skin. They use it in mac and cheese, in their beans, and often in potato salad as cracklin's (pork rinds). She also tells me that there has been many a fight for the last batch.After a refreshing nap for both kids in the car, we met the Rush-Leavitt family at the
BBQ Shop on Madison Ave, aka the “home of the Dancing Pigs.” They are known for their BBQ Spaghetti and Ribs. What is this BBQ Spaghetti, you ask? 
It’s pasta with smoked pork shoulder, drizzled in the house BBQ sauce. YUM. This one was well above Interstate’s because the pasta had the BBQ sauce incorporated into the noodle; however, it did leave a bit of a pool of oil on the plate. Dinner was good, but the sauce was pretty heavy in the vinegar arena. 
The day was ended with getting the kids in bed, a taste test between the pork plates from Marlowe’s and Tops BBQ, and then watching Twilight: New Moon.
Sunday, March 21, 2010
Day 2, Part 3 - The Final Leg (And a Few Ribs Too)
Next stop---Cairo, IL, just across the Ohio River. We anticipated 2 places, but found Mack’s boarded up. As we drove through town on Washington and then Sycamore, we wondered what had happened to this town? There’s a beautiful stone Town Hall/Courthouse that’s 4 stories with a grand lawn majestic Customs house next door, with battlement relics out front—remnants of a busy, strong town. We’re right on the Ohio River, so easy access via river. Cairo also has a Historic Park District, with big beautiful run-down Victorians. We’ll have to find out more. We made a stop at Shemwell’s Barbeque on Washington. “The Best Bar-B-Q in Town.” Now seems to be the only BBQ in town. Sean is picking up a homemade sauce with a splash of Apple. Shemwell's has a massive fireplace where they do all their smoking.
We realize that it is 2:30 pm, and have planned 5 more BBQ stops along I-55, and decided that we will push right through to Memphis for the kids’ sake of eating at a reasonable time. The benefit of this route happens to be that we will pass all of these stops as we travel to St. Louis on Day 6. So with the foot on the gas, we speed down I-55 for our dinner destination. We roll into Memphis at 5:25 and the sun is breaking through the clouds, shining against the sides of the now defunct pyramid on the Northwestern boundary of the city, and we can feel that we are all excited to get out of the van. We reached the Leavitt-Rush household in one piece, and the kids just exploded out of the van and into the home of Oliver and baby Reagan. Oh yeah, and Jenelle and Bradley.
For the last meal of the day, we decide to get one of the Big 3 in Memphis and order Corky’s Ribs to eat at the house. As the family is unwinding, Sean is sent out to get the food and meet with Krista, manager of Corky’s Cordova. Known as the newer restaurant, the drive through lane is backed up 25 cars deep. This seems to be the location that all of the locals come too, while they let the tourists go to the much smaller/older locale. Told to get the ribs done dry, and the sauce on the side, Sean spends a little time getting pictures of the food being prepared on the grill and shoving his head in the smoker to get some shots of tomorrow's pork shoulders. The food is amazing. The rub has a little bit of a heat kick to it, the sauce is quite good. It doesn't have the excessive sweetness that some Chicago or KC sauces have. The sides are perfect, and complement the meat very well. The ribs are extremely tender and the meat falls off the bone very easily. Kuddos to our hosts for making this a suggestion for dinner on night #1.
Sean returns to the house to crazy kids running everywhere, two mothers that seem to have a bit more straggly hair than when he left, and he thinks, “Will they ever get to bed?” The answer is yes, because we have a lot of ground to cover tomorrow.
Day 2, Part 2 - Deeper South
Our travelers continue along I-24 to Paducah, KY for lunch at Backwoods BBQ. Known for their smoked chicken and pork. Let’s just say, we are definitely in the South. We got excited seeing a “Sonic,” until we saw another one a few more miles up the road. Sonic Drive-Ins are to the South what McDonalds are to the North. Luckies….“Hey y’all…go ‘head an’ sit wherever y'all want.” You know you’re in the South when cheesy hash browns are served as a side, and pecan and custard pie is on display under glass dishes, on the counter. David and Sudie, the owners of Backwoods smoked over 44,000 pounds of meat last year. YUM. Sean immediately started salivating. We really enjoyed the sauce---strong tang, definitely southern with a high vinegar component, and some good zing to it. Everyone looked at us when we ordered, knowing we were from the North simply from the absence of Sweet Tea from our table. David kindly offered us a pound of meat should we find ourselves passing through Paducah again on our way home. Is the devil tempting us? (I only bring this up because we are entering the Bible Belt, home of huge churches and 200 foot crosses along the highways, to strike fear into anyone who dares change lanes without using a signal.)
With a left turn in Barlow, KY to continue on 60, Sean states, “Now we’re goin’ South.” Missing the drawl accents and generous hospitality we had been receiving for the past 6 hours. As soon as we made the turn, Sean’s BBQ nose started vibrating (akin to spidey sense) as we approached “Prince Pit BBQ.” See photo. Unfortunately, it ain’t open. DANGIT, because it looked like a shack that would be filled with yummy goodness. IL 60 is taking us to Wickliffe, KY to find some interesting Indian, Native American, First Nationers burial mounds. I hope Sean doesn’t get possessed. “Where’s the Almond Joy?” He had to explain to me what he meant. I didn’t watch as much TV as he did….
We made it to the Wickliffe, KY Indian Mounds State Park, and meet the care taker, Karyn, who also happened to be David Curtis’ younger sister! The site had some interesting observation houses that surround and protect the excavated mounds. Despite the rain, we were able to check out the sites and allow the kids some time to just RUN.
Much needed after the yummy lunch! We spent some time talking to Karyn, who grew up one of 7 kids about 10 miles up the road from the Mounds. She left us with some words of wisdom about Kentucky, ”There’s 2 things Kentuckyians love—Basketball, and BBQ.” I asked, “what about horses?” “Well, we love our horses, but we know what our priorities are!”
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